Agfa Viradon???????
 

Hi All,

Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it
look like an old picture
as it was taken on an old camera.
The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed.
The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets.
After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25.
After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon
went all "murky"

Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to
tone in some sepia after but it
wouldn't sepia either. Why?????????

Thanks in advance

Agfa Viradon???????
 

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...
Hi All,

Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my
photograph to make it look like an old picture
as it was taken on an old camera.
The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12"
well washed.
The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print
for 2 to 10 minuets.
After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the
strenght to 1-25.
After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print,
but the viradon went all "murky"

Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone,
also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it
wouldn't sepia either. Why?????????

Thanks in advance


Some papers don't tone very well but you should have
gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were made:
The older one was a combination of selenium and polysulfide
similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one was sulfide
only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner
works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the
toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be
treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and
get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo
Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been
discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use
the clearing agent at normal working strength.
Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all
densities at the same rate so will provide considerable
image protection even when only partial toning has been
done.
It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when
diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a
peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove.
What kind of Sepia toner did you try?



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

Agfa Viradon???????
 

"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
...

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...
Hi All,

Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make
it look like an old picture
as it was taken on an old camera.
The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed.
The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10
minuets.
After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to
1-25.
After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon
went all "murky"

Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to
tone in some sepia after but it
wouldn't sepia either. Why?????????

Thanks in advance


Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some color
change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a combination
of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one
was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner works
very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the toner to about 120F.
After toning the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to
stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak
Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been discontinued but
Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use the clearing agent at normal
working strength.
Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same
rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only partial
toning has been done.
It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or partly
exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which is very
difficult to remove.
What kind of Sepia toner did you try?



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia toner.
I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray.

Agfa Viradon???????
 

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...

"Richard Knoppow" wrote in
message
...

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...
Hi All,

Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my
photograph to make it look like an old picture
as it was taken on an old camera.
The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x
12" well washed.
The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print
for 2 to 10 minuets.
After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the
strenght to 1-25.
After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the
print, but the viradon went all "murky"

Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone,
also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it
wouldn't sepia either. Why?????????

Thanks in advance


Some papers don't tone very well but you should have
gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were
made: The older one was a combination of selenium and
polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one
was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The
polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You
might try heating the toner to about 120F. After toning
the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite
to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've
found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think
this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover
should work. I use the clearing agent at normal working
strength.
Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all
densities at the same rate so will provide considerable
image protection even when only partial toning has been
done.
It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when
diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a
peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove.
What kind of Sepia toner did you try?



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia
toner.
I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray.
There are several type of "sepia" toner. The one
usually called this is a two step, bleach and redevelop,
toner. Some newer papers are very hard to bleach. If this
is the problem you are having you may have to try mixing
your own toner. Kodak was selling Sepia Toner II
specifically for newer papers but I think its been
discontinued along with nearly all Kodak chemicals. Other
sepia toners are one-step. The polysulfide type like
Viradon, is one, others have to be mixed yourself. There are
many variations of these but the formulas for Kodak and
Ansco or AGFA are reliable. Google should find formulas or
post here and I will send some.
Note that all sulfiding toners smell from hydrogen
sulfide (rotten egg odor) and are best used outdoors.


--

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

Agfa Viradon???????
 

"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
m...

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...

"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
...

"polly filler" wrote in message
o.uk...
Hi All,

Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to
make it look like an old picture
as it was taken on an old camera.
The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed.
The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10
minuets.
After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to
1-25.
After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the
viradon went all "murky"

Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried
to tone in some sepia after but it
wouldn't sepia either. Why?????????

Thanks in advance


Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some
color change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a
combination of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and
the later one was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The
polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating
the toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be treated in a
bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow
stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think
this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use
the clearing agent at normal working strength.
Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same
rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only
partial toning has been done.
It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or
partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which
is very difficult to remove.
What kind of Sepia toner did you try?



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL

Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia toner.
I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray.
There are several type of "sepia" toner. The one usually called this
is a two step, bleach and redevelop, toner. Some newer papers are very
hard to bleach. If this is the problem you are having you may have to try
mixing your own toner. Kodak was selling Sepia Toner II specifically for
newer papers but I think its been discontinued along with nearly all Kodak
chemicals. Other sepia toners are one-step. The polysulfide type like
Viradon, is one, others have to be mixed yourself. There are many
variations of these but the formulas for Kodak and Ansco or AGFA are
reliable. Google should find formulas or post here and I will send some.
Note that all sulfiding toners smell from hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg
odor) and are best used outdoors.


--

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL



Many thanks for the info