wrote

What happens when pottasium ferricyanide is applied on selective areas
of selenium-toned fibre based prints

In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24
Polytoner for ~5 minutes.

Esalen? I thought that went the way of faded San Francisco Art
Nouveau body paint ...

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

Bleaching Selenium- Toned FB Prints
 

What happens when pottasium ferricyanide is applied on selective areas
of selenium-toned fibre based prints for the purpose of bleaching in
order to retouch the print.
Generally, we use pottasium ferricyanide on prints that have not been
selenium toned in order to bleach to prepare the print for retouching.
Will selenium-toned prints be affected by pottasium ferricyanide?
The selenium is a mild dilution, 1:30, and the prints are washed
throughly after being toned in preparation for retouching.

In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24
Polytoner for ~5 minutes.

It must depend on the paper. My MFA thesis show ~15 years ago had a series
of prints variously affected by pot. ferricyanide and selenium toner in all
sorts of combinations.

On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching
would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. I still have a few of those
prints around the house.

I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test
print.

Bill Schneider

In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24
Polytoner for ~5 minutes.

It must depend on the paper. My MFA thesis show ~15 years ago had a series
of prints variously affected by pot. ferricyanide and selenium toner in all
sorts of combinations.

On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching
would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. I still have a few of those
prints around the house.

I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test
print.

Bill Schneider

"William Schneider" wrote
Nicholas Lindan wrote:

In my experience, not much of anything [happened when bleached
toned prints]. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24 Polytoner for ~5 minutes.

On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching
would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones.

Strange, I wonder what chemical was formed?

I went back to my notes: Ilford MGIV RC, pearl finish,
postcard stock, Kodak Polytoner 1:24. Not a very standard
combination, but nothing happened - 20 postcards into the
trash. AA, YMWV.

I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test
print.

Good advice. Though if everybody followed it there wouldn't be all
that much use for Usenet.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

"William Schneider" wrote
Nicholas Lindan wrote:

In my experience, not much of anything [happened when bleached
toned prints]. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24 Polytoner for ~5 minutes.

On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching
would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones.

Strange, I wonder what chemical was formed?

I went back to my notes: Ilford MGIV RC, pearl finish,
postcard stock, Kodak Polytoner 1:24. Not a very standard
combination, but nothing happened - 20 postcards into the
trash. AA, YMWV.

I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test
print.

Good advice. Though if everybody followed it there wouldn't be all
that much use for Usenet.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/