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Jobo & Pre Rinse?
I have bought a Jobo CPE2 with the lift and a 1540 drum with reels.
I want to use TMax 100 and 400 in D76 1:1. The instruction book recommends a 5 minute pre rinse before pouring in the developer. Is it essential to pre soak films if using a Jobo? Does anyone here use a Jobo, if so, what is your method? |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
"Darkroom User" wrote in message ... I have bought a Jobo CPE2 with the lift and a 1540 drum with reels. I want to use TMax 100 and 400 in D76 1:1. The instruction book recommends a 5 minute pre rinse before pouring in the developer. Is it essential to pre soak films if using a Jobo? Does anyone here use a Jobo, if so, what is your method? -- Darkroom User Send them an email, they will answer your question. http://www.jobo.com/web/Contact.171.0.html I had some problems with their 3-bath kit is the past, and they were very responsive. Cheers |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
That's a loaded question and I'm sure you're going to get a lot of different answers.
I always used a prewash for a couple of reasons. The first is that without the prewash my development times were to short at under 5min. The second was that I get more even development. When I didn't use the prewash I noticed problems with streaking and uneven development. One thing that's very important is that if you use a multi reel tank you have to fill the tank with reels or you'll get horrible streaking. I ran into this while using very dilute developers and needed to use the larger tanks to get the developer volume I needed. As to my method I bring the wash water to temp in the tempering tank. In my never humble opinion that has the added benefit of bringing the reels and film to temp so when you add the developer the temp and therefore contrast is more consistent. Frank Darkroom User wrote: : I have bought a Jobo CPE2 with the lift and a 1540 drum with reels. : I want to use TMax 100 and 400 in D76 1:1. The instruction book : recommends a 5 minute pre rinse before pouring in the developer. Is it : essential to pre soak films if using a Jobo? : Does anyone here use a Jobo, if so, what is your method? : -- : Darkroom User -- ------------------- Keep working dumbo needs the money |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
In article , Darkroom User
wrote: I have bought a Jobo CPE2 with the lift and a 1540 drum with reels. I want to use TMax 100 and 400 in D76 1:1. The instruction book recommends a 5 minute pre rinse before pouring in the developer. Is it essential to pre soak films if using a Jobo? Does anyone here use a Jobo, if so, what is your method? Don't know. I always used Nikkor tanks and reels. |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
"darkroommike" wrote in message ... On Jul 23, 2:16 pm, Darkroom User Darkroom.User. wrote: I have bought a Jobo CPE2 with the lift and a 1540 drum with reels. I want to use TMax 100 and 400 in D76 1:1. The instruction book recommends a 5 minute pre rinse before pouring in the developer. Is it essential to pre soak films if using a Jobo? Does anyone here use a Jobo, if so, what is your method? -- Darkroom User I do a lot of rotary processing with a Unicolor System, I think the presoak is a good idea but i would not recommend D76 (at any dilution). I have had my best luck with HC-110 and TMax developers. First, you make only what you need and, second, D76 tends to stain the reels quite a bit, quite noticeable on the white Unicolor reels. I use a water rinse or stop bath, depends on film, and one shot paper strength fixer. Tmax 400 in ID11 1:3 for 15mins is very nice too |
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What do you perceive to be so different between ID11 and D76? |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
"darkroommike" wrote in message ... On Jul 27, 7:30 pm, "Richard Knoppow" wrote: "Darkroom User" wrote in . .. My reason for "disavowing" D-76 and ID-11 has nothing to do with their suitability as a developer but rather everything to do with the black deposits they leave on my pristine white film processing reels. I'm not any sort of real chemist, I do not know what these deposits are, but I spent more time cleaning reels than I spent processing film. Dektol/D72 leave the same sort of deposits on my paper developing tray. The situation seems exacerbated by plastic trays and tanks, the reels can get so bad that the film drags as it is loaded. I do not see it when using stainless (!) steel film reels. I also use my film developer "one shot" so liquid concentrates such as HC-110 and TMax work better with my peculiar analog workflow. I have not had that problem with D-76 but have with Dektol. It appears to be deposits of metallic silver. I don't know why either developer should do it more than others. I use stainless steel tanks for film, except for large sheet film, but use plastic for prints. I get rid of the deposit on the developing tray with old-fashioned bichromate glass cleaner but these days you have to make your own. I think other silver bleaches will work. I have not tried concentrated rapid fixer with added citric acid but its an effective silver bleach and might work. When AGFA was still in business I used AGFA Neutol Plus print developer, I don't remember it leaving the same deposits. Since Jobo tanks are made of plastic its possible D-76 leaves a silver deposit on them more readily than on stainless steel although I don't understand the chemistry well enough to know why it would. There ARE better developers than D-76 but its very reliable and works for nearly all films coming close to the results from the better developers, so I continue to use it. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL |
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Xtol is supposed to be more eco-friendly and is often cited as giving a slight improvement over D-76. |
Jobo & Pre Rinse?
"Keith Tapscott." wrote in message ... Richard Knoppow;927979 Wrote: There ARE better developers than D-76 but its very reliable and works for nearly all films coming close to the results from the better developers, so I continue to use it. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL ou mention that there are better developers (plural, not singular) than D-76, which one's are you referring to? Xtol is supposed to be more eco-friendly and is often cited as giving a slight improvement over D-76. -- Keith Tapscott. Kodak indicates that Xtol will yeild slightly higher speed, slightly finer grain, and slightly greater acutance than D-76. The only problem with Xtol is that it got off to a bad start with the sudden death syndrome. I have not heard anything about this for some time so perhaps its been cured. Xtol is also a self-replenishing developer, that is, the same solution is used for replenishing so one does not have to stock two different solutions. Its probably the optimum developer for most B&W use. AFAIK no one else makes an identical developer although some may have names that suggest they are the same. The patents for Xtol are available and I suppose one could mix the stuff from scratch but I think some of the components might be a PITA to find. Having said that D-76 works for nearly everything and while not quite as good as Xtol its close. Its easy to mix from scratch if necessary and is absolutely reliable. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL |
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