how to put the border around a headshot?
here is what i want to do to my headshot
http://www.graphicreproductions.com/4.htm any ideas of how to accomplish it. with photoshop 8? |
how to put the border around a headshot?
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how to put the border around a headshot?
here is what i want to do to my headshot http://www.graphicreproductions.com/4.htm any ideas of how to accomplish it. with photoshop 8? Most likely they bought a CD full of borders, that looks like what they used to call a filed out negative carrier frame, a photog would literally take a metal file to enlarge the image area around the negative, way out to the edge of the sprockets, it was an arty look. Now you can buy CD's full of various royalty free images of borders, that, a 4x5 type neg edge, various polaroid edge effects. You can make your own, to get a deckle edge take a piece of paper with a deckle edge and scan it, copy and rotate so you have four sides, frankly I think you should keep it simple, if you were to talk to casting agents, ad art directors, you'll find that they find such effects distracting, even annoying. what I sometimes do is make a dup layer, hit layer style and add a beveled edge with inner or outer glow, that will give you a thin clean edge with no attention getting distractions. Its really rare that a fancy matting, underlay, overlay, pin stripe tape, and arty borders actually improves an image. In PPA print competition you will see it on a lot of prints, but any time it becomes as noticable as the subject itself then the whole thing takes a hit in the score, it smells of flop sweat, a desperation move to rescue a mediocre image that the submitter had already spent a wad to make a print and retouch. It just doesn't sing, so they start putting mattes and color tape edges hoping something might fly. Photoshop 8? geez, I'm still puttering around with 6. here's some ideas... if your target is an 8x10, then scale your image for, say 7 inches wide, make another copy of the image that is 7.5 wide, now run a filter or two, streak it, blur it, dapple, grain, swirl, whatever. hit image adjust and curves or brightness and make it a step or two darker (or brighter) and drag it on to the final canvas, then drop your main image, now you have a custom border keyed to your image. |
how to put the border around a headshot?
"Millenium" wrote in message om... here is an example of the frame i want to put around my headshot.. any idea of how to do it with photoshop 8? http://www.graphicreproductions.com/4.htm thankds man, you other people are no help at all. you need to size down your image to the size you want it. find a 'sloppy' border like the one in the sample (you'll have to do your own searching for those). increase the white canvas to 8x10, then drag over the black sloppy and line it up (use 'scale'). add the text to the bottom and you're done. for a genuine headshot, you will want the white canvas on the bottom to be bigger than on the top (see your sample). reverse borders also look cool. that is when you have a white sloppy and black large canvas around it. and by the way, resolution on screen is rated in PIXELS per inch (ppi), not dots (dpi), therefore you want your resolution set to 300ppi. |
how to put the border around a headshot?
M77 wrote: "Millenium" wrote in message om... here is an example of the frame i want to put around my headshot.. any idea of how to do it with photoshop 8? http://www.graphicreproductions.com/4.htm thankds man, you other people are no help at all. you need to size down your image to the size you want it. find a 'sloppy' border like the one in the sample (you'll have to do your own searching for those). increase the white canvas to 8x10, then drag over the black sloppy and line it up (use 'scale'). add the text to the bottom and you're done. for a genuine headshot, you will want the white canvas on the bottom to be bigger than on the top (see your sample). reverse borders also look cool. that is when you have a white sloppy and black large canvas around it. and by the way, resolution on screen is rated in PIXELS per inch (ppi), not dots (dpi), therefore you want your resolution set to 300ppi. Use the rectangular marquee to form the border inverse to capture border only background fill white puts in the white border use the lasso tool to make the sides of each of the "filed frames" after you have what you want fill these with black do it on all 4 sides. You can use the lasso tool to make any other interesting areas around the print. You can do this in PS and don't need to go to second party sources. It isn't that hard. I think Adobe has a tutorial on making a "ripped edge effect" that can be used for making the black border. If any of this wasn't clear e-mail me. My address is functional. I would have responded earlier but life has been hard lately Peace Stan Visual Arts Photography |
how to put the border around a headshot?
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:30:33 -0800, "M77" wrote:
hicreproductions.com/4.htm man, you other people are no help at all. I hope you're kidding about that, cause several answers above are much clearer than the one you provided. and by the way, resolution on screen is rated in PIXELS per inch (ppi), not dots (dpi), therefore you want your resolution set to 300ppi. I'd ignore that statement. It is illogical as the two statements do not belong in the same sentence. Just because you've added a "therefore" does not make it true. And I'll tell you why: the resolution of the monitor is usually about 72 to 96 ppi (divide the resolution you're running your monitor at by the monitor's image area and you'll see). So 300 ppi for a digital image has nothing to do with what the monitor is displaying (unless you're designing web pages). There's a much, much deeper reason for using 300 ppi for digital images. -- JC |
how to put the border around a headshot?
Hey J C what is the "deeper" reason for the 300 ppi for digital? I'm seriously
behind the learning curve. Any help would be appreciated Stan Visual Arts Photography J C wrote: On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 01:30:33 -0800, "M77" wrote: hicreproductions.com/4.htm man, you other people are no help at all. I hope you're kidding about that, cause several answers above are much clearer than the one you provided. and by the way, resolution on screen is rated in PIXELS per inch (ppi), not dots (dpi), therefore you want your resolution set to 300ppi. I'd ignore that statement. It is illogical as the two statements do not belong in the same sentence. Just because you've added a "therefore" does not make it true. And I'll tell you why: the resolution of the monitor is usually about 72 to 96 ppi (divide the resolution you're running your monitor at by the monitor's image area and you'll see). So 300 ppi for a digital image has nothing to do with what the monitor is displaying (unless you're designing web pages). There's a much, much deeper reason for using 300 ppi for digital images. -- JC |
how to put the border around a headshot?
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how to put the border around a headshot?
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 01:16:36 -0700, Marc 182
wrote: You shouldn't top-post, that's for email. The effective resolution of photo paper is around 200-250 ppi. By keeping the resolution of your digital images above 300 ppi you ensure that no pixilation will be detectable on your final output. Marc For digital printing on an inkjet or laser printer connected to a computer the resolution recommendations have little to do with the paper. It has everything to do with the print engines used by output devices. And in fact, for inkjet printing generally a 150 ppi image is more than enough for a photographic output With real printing, on a printing press, the paper does play a small role (because of dot gain, which is explained last). As a simple example, lets take a one color laser printer and a one color TIF file at 300 dpi (the explanation for inkjet printing is a bit more complex). Also, and this is very important, lets start with the concept that no printer on the face of the planet prints a one-to-one correspondence between the information in the digital file and the output device. To put it simply the print engines of all output device process the image into something that it can print. Now this gets complex... In order to output that one color digital file on a one color laser printer the print engine must interpret the colors. The digital file can contain 256 colors of grey, but a laser printer has only one color of toner (black). Therefore to simulate the grey scale image the laser printer must break it down into halftone dots, the size of these dots then determines the grey value that the eye perceives. Take a look at a laser print out of a digital image and you'll see the dots. Now further, a laser printer capable of 600 or 1200 dpi printing does not actually print 600 or 1200 individual dots that can be discerned in the printed halftone, though the dots that do show up on paper are composed of several toner dots joined together. The reason that the RIP (or "raster image processor") in the printer restricts its halftone line screen output is because a higher output would require much more processing time. So, instead the laser printer spits out a halftone with a maximum of approximately 127 halftone line screen (also known as lpi, lines per inch) [And note here that even though the print driver says the laser is capable of a 150 or 200 line screen for halftones it is NOT.] So what does all this processing mean... Well the printer's RIP samples the image information and creates an appropriate halfone dot. Since there is not a one-to-one correspondence between the colors in the image and the resulting halftone dots, the RIP samples image information ("pixels" in the image) and determines the size of the halftone dot. The finer the resolution of the starting image (within limits) the better the halftone output. Lower resolution images will look fuzzy because of this sampling process. AND NOW to answer why a 300 dpi image is a standard... because in high quality printing (on a printing press) photographs will be output at anywhere from 133 lines per inch to 200 lines per inch -- 133 is used in most magazines, 150 used in technical publications (medical xrays for example) and sometimes 200 in art books (and many times art books will be printed in duotone, but I'll not confuse you here and just leave that at that). So in the 300 image resolution printed with a 150 line halftone, this means that 4 image "pixels" will be converted into one halftone dot (but the raster image processor also considers other surrounding pixels in the process as well) and this resolution gets a very sharp image for a printing press. If you want to test this out then try this: Create an image that is half white and half 100% black. Now create different resolutions of this file and print this on your laser printer using different halftone line screens. Then look closely at the border area between black and white. The lower resolution images printed with lower halftone line screen values will have more indistinct (aka fuzzy) borders, which will make the image look out of focus. However once you reach about 127 lines per inch in the halftone, you've not reached the compromise point between the size of the halftone dot and the size of the lasers toner splatter -- there's unwanted toner dots in the white areas which degrade the image. Similarly on a real printing press another effect occurs... the wet ink spreads out because of the capillary action of the fibers in the paper and this makes the halftone does slightly larger and thus the image darker. There's a point at which making the halftone screen smaller will not increase the image quality (neither black and white nor color). [And FYI, because of this dot gain, the images produced for most publications are tweaked so that their saturation when viewed on screen looks washed out... which is done by "Adjusting... Curves" in Photoshop.] There's a lot that I've not covered and that I've simplified, but that's basically how it works. -- JC |
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